May 26, 2014

Cat’s Out of the Bag

Tokio Kumagaï and Charlotte Olympia

Before launching his own collection in 1981, Japanese-born Tokio Kumagaï attended the Bunka College of Fashion (where Kenzo and Issey Miyake would also matriculate) and soon after began designing footwear for Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre d’Alby. For his eponymous label, Kumagaï went beyond the expected, ...

Costume   ::   0 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
May 11, 2014

Cross Check

Christian Lacroix and Urban Outfitters

Peter Lindbergh’s 1988 November cover for Vogue Magazine (also Anna Wintour’s debut cover) featured a black jacket by Christian Lacroix, encrusted with a Byzantian-like bejeweled cross. The couture jacket, provocatively styled with a pair of the model’s own acid wash jeans–the model being Israeli ...

Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
March 22, 2014

A Good Sport

Geoffrey Beene and Tom Ford

With a design philosophy that flouted trends in favor of his own whimsy, Geoffrey Beene marched to his own fashion drum. Lauded for his expert construction and skillful seams, his pieces were not without a touch of the unexpected. In the vein of Chanel and Patou, Beene would employ a simple jersey in the design of an ...

Costume   ::   2 Comments
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
January 21, 2014

An Arm and A Leg

YSL and Jean Charles de Castelbajac

A year after Yves Saint Laurent debuted his Mondrian-inspired shift dresses, the designer continued his appropriation of art into fashion with his Fall/Winter 1966-67 “Pop Art” dresses. This crop of dresses featured fragmented silhouettes of the female figure printed atop columnar shaped gowns, perhaps ...

Costume   ::   1 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
January 5, 2014

Hats Off

Cristobal Balenciaga and Nicolas Ghesquiere

A year before the designer’s final collection, Cristóbal Balenciaga introduced his single-seam wedding dress in 1967. Balenciaga would take cues from the period’s affinity for futuristic cuts and tech fabrics, and in this case, reappropriated them into the unlikeliest of places, the traditional white wedding ...

Costume   ::   0 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
January 1, 2014

Face to Face

12.31 Elsa Schiaparelli and Miu Miu

A contemporary of Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, Elsa Schiaparelli’s transgressive designs were often inspired by the surrealists.  A violet, satin evening coat was the result of Schiaparelli’s collaboration with Jean Cocteau in 1937 and was almost certainly the inspiration for a jacket seen on Miu Miu’s ...

Costume   ::   1 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
December 24, 2013

McQueen Antoinette

Alexander McQueen and Victoria's Secret

To fête the release the Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette in 2006, Vogue enlisted Annie Leibovitz for an 18th-century-themed editorial starring Kirsten Dunst as the Dauphine. Photographed nowhere else but Versailles, Dunst is resplendent in designer interpretations of rococo fashions, descending the stairs of a ...

Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
October 30, 2013

Snail Mail

10.30  Harry Richman and YSL 2

Soon after Yves Saint Laurent’s death in 2008, his eponymous label would launch a collection of leather goods to commemorate the late designer. The postage-like script featuring the address of the couturier belonged to Mr. Saint Laurent himself, taken from a letter he had written. The trompe-l’oeil design may ...

Costume   ::   0 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
October 22, 2013

Dragon Robe

Imperial Dragon Robe and Laurence Hsu

China’s Qing Dynasty would mandate several sumptuary laws, establishing yellow as the dedicated color for the dragon throne: its emperor and court officials. Emperors of the Qing Dynasty would dress in elaborately embroidered golden robes commonly known as Dragon Robes; silk robes which featured horse-hoofed sleeves, ...

Costume   ::   1 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...
October 15, 2013

Ruff Idea

Queen Elizabeth and Thom Browne

As the uni-sex ruff became an increasingly pervasive component of Renaissance dress, women made an alteration to the demure neckpiece creating the open ruff as an alternative that showcased the woman’s bust. For Thom Browne’s SS 2014 collection, the designer would reappropriate several elements ...

Costume   ::   0 Comment
Share on FacebookPin it on PinterestShare on TumblrShare on Twitter
Continue reading...