Dec 14

Peekaboo

Most remembered for his portraits of Marilyn Monroe and James Dean, Phil Stern’s subjects ranged from soldiers on the warfront to starlets of Hollywood. The year of the Dean’s premature death, Stern photographed the actor peeking out of his sweater, perhaps suggesting Dean’s enigmatic persona. Harper’s Bazaar’s ...

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Oct 18

Shadow Play

German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld’s Dada background is evident in his collage-like images and photographic manipulations. Shadows were often used to Blumenfeld’s advantage as illustrated in his c. 1945 image of an unknown model whose presence is sliced through the vertical shades cast upon her. Norwegian-born ...

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Aug 27

Second Wind

“Otherworldly” best describes the aesthetic of Norwegian-born photographer Sølve Sundsbø. A regular contributor to many contemporary fashion publications, Sundsbø garnered much attention for his visual contribution to the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty catalogue. In 2008, Sundsbø photographed Danish model ...

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Aug 18

Cut to the Chaise

Under the moniker of Horst P. Horst, German born Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann would photograph the beau monde and Parisian café society of the interwar years. The year Horst would meet Gabrielle Chanel, he took the most memorable and well-known photograph of the fashion designer’s life; an image that came to typify the ...

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Aug 10

Parrot-fashion

Transgressive German photographer Helmut Newton, established a prolific body of work in his signature voyeuristic style that changed the landscape of 20th-century fashion photography. In 1985, the photographer would capture Elizabeth Taylor’s self-professed love affair with jewelry as she bathed in a Los Angeles pool ...

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Jul 24

Bubble Boy

Often looking to the surreal, Melvin Sokolsky would play with proportion, perspective and pre-photoshop trickery in his fashion photography. Known for his series of bubble girls hovering about Paris, Sokolsky drew inspiration from Hieronymus Bosch’s fantastical painting, The Garden of Earthly Delights which featured a ...

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Jul 19

Fair Game

In 1956, Cecil Beaton costumed the debut Broadway production of My Fair Lady, which would earn the prolific photographer and costumer designer a Tony for Best Costume Design. Seven years later, Beaton was celebrated once more for his Eliza Doolittle costumes, this time worn by Audrey Hepburn in the film adaptation of the ...

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Jan 31

Stay the Course

A “stay” was the word of choice for the understructure later referred to as a corset in the 19th-century. Today, the corset conjures up notions of tight-laced, wasp-waisted hourglass figures, however, the stay of the 18th-century was intended to lift the breasts and straighten the back rather than nip in the waist. The ...

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Jan 03

Drown Out

As one of the three founders of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, John Everett Millais, would create some of the most well-known imagery of the Pre-Raphaelite movement which looked to Quattrocento or 15th-century Italian art. Shakespeare often served as inspiration to the Pre-Raphaelites as seen in Millais’ 1851-52 ...

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Nov 29

Lampshade Dressing

Paul Poiret’s 1913 costumes for Le Minaret were followed soon after with similar versions available for his avant-garde patrons looking to shock in Orientalist ensembles. Poiret’s translation of harem-style dressing for the Parisian set resulted in a stiffened, oversized tunic paired atop his columnar hobble skirts. ...

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