Put Your Best Face Forward

Harry Gordon and Lanvin

The disposable paper dress was first introduced in 1966 by the Scott Paper Company. Soon after, pop and graphic artists such as Harry Gordon, began producing garments constructed of the material, including Gordon’s “Mystic Eye” shift dress in 1968. In Lanvin’s SS 2007 show, designer Alber Elbaz sent a 60s shift dress down the runway with a similar graphic print. Although the Lanvin shift was not composed of paper, Elbaz also looked to textile technology, describing his desire “to touch technology, engineering, silicone, nylon, metal, and plastic” in designing the collection.

Harry Gordon Paper Dress, 1968

Harry Gordon Paper Dress, 1968

 

 

Lanvin, SS 2007

Lanvin, SS 2007

 

 

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Junon

Christian Dior and Zuhair Murad

Christian Dior’s Junon gown from the designer’s 1949 collection, which also featured gowns by the names of Venus and Hera, is constructed with a skirt of beaded ombré petals resembling peacock feathers, a bird possessing classical symbolism through its associations with the Queen of the Olympians. The ball gown, housed at The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, has been a source of inspiration to countless designers. In 2009, Miley Cyrus wore a dress bearing uncanny resemblance to Junon to The Oscars by Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad whose publicist commented that Murad’s version “re-creates the look of the Dior gown using today’s technology.”

 

 

 

Junon by Dior, 1949

Junon by Dior, 1949

Miley Cyrus in Zuhair Murad, 2009

Miley Cyrus in Zuhair Murad, 2009

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Madame X, Y & Z

John Singer Sargent and Steven Meisel and Peter Lindeberg

The controversial and widely known John Singer Sargent portrait, Madame X, maintains its intrigue and mystery till this day. The once fallen strap to be later repainted in its rightful position continues to fascinate viewers and has been the subject of multiple recreations. In 1999, Steven Meisel recreated the portrait with Nicole Kidman wearing Oscar de la Renta for Vogue‘s June issue. In 2008, Peter Lindbergh also payed homage to Singer Sargent, starring Julianne Moore in Ralph Lauren for the May issue of Harper’s Bazaar.

John Singer Sargent, Madame X, 1884

John Singer Sargent, Madame X, 1884

 

 

Steven Meisel, Vogue June, 199

Steven Meisel, Vogue June, 1999

 

 

Peter Lindbergh, Harper's Bazaar May, 2008

Peter Lindbergh, Harper’s Bazaar May, 2008

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Sun Bleached

John Rawlings and Steven Meisel

Featured in the June 1, 1941 issue of Vogue, John Rawlings photographed summer bathing suit fashions in his signature quintessentially American and low-frill style. Missoni’s Spring/Summer 2009 campaign by Steven Meisel features a comparable birdseye view of the sunbathers Natasha Poly, Danny Schwarz, Mat Gordon & Isabeli Fontana dressed for the sun.

 

 

 

John Rawlings, Vogue June 1, 1941

John Rawlings, Vogue June 1, 1941

 

Steven Meisel, Missoni SS 2009 Campaign

Steven Meisel, Missoni SS 2009 Campaign

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We’ll Always Have Paris

Erwin Blumenfeld and Peter Lindeberg

Erwin Blumenfeld photographed a reportedly unharnessed Lisa Fonssagrives swinging her Lucien Lelong dress off the side of the Eiffel Tower in celebration of the monument’s fiftieth anniversary for French Vogue in 1939.  In August of 2009, the subscriber cover of Harper’s Bazaar shot by Peter Lindbergh portrayed Kate Winslet in a similar fashion, wearing a Ralph Lauren gown infront of the Chrysler Building.

The Eiffel Tower by Erwin Blumenfeld, Paris Vogue 1939

The Eiffel Tower by Erwin Blumenfeld, Paris Vogue 1939

 

Peter Lindbergh, Harper's Bazaar August, 2009

Peter Lindbergh, Harper’s Bazaar August, 2009

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Down the Rabbit Hole

Erwin Blumenfeld and Guy Bourdin

German photographer Erwin Blumenfeld’s Dada background is evident in his collage-like images and photographic manipulations. Blumenfeld’s Nude in Stockings, 1945 can be viewed as a precursor to the work of French photographer Guy Bourdin. Bourdin ‘s Spring 1979 campaign would become one of his most well-known images, typical of his work which featured disembodied legs wearing shoes by Charles Jourdan.

Nude in Stockings by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1945

Nude in Stockings by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1945

 

Guy Bourdin, Spring 1979 Charles Jourdan campaign

Guy Bourdin, Spring 1979 Charles Jourdan campaign

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Go Bananas

 

Josephine Baker and Beyonce

A pioneer for African American women, Josephine Baker is commonly associated with her seductive banana dance performance at the Folies Bergère, costumed in a skimpy skirt constructed with a string of artificial bananas. In 2006, Beyonce payed tribute to Baker by sporting her own version of a banana skirt for the Fashion Rocks concert.

Josephine Baker, 1926

Josephine Baker, 1926

 

Beyonce, 2006

Beyonce, 2006

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Umbrella Weather

Puddle by Martin Munkasci and Homage to Munkasci by Richard Avedon

With a background in reportage and sports photography, Hungarian photographer Martin Munkasci became a pioneer in active, candid-style fashion photography. Puddle Jumper by Munkasci was published in Harper’s Bazaar in 1934 and has become one of the most recognized images in fashion photography. In 1957, Richard Avedon, who would also revolutionize fashion photography through dynamic, active images, paid tribute to the Munkasci photograph Homage to Munkasci starring model Carmen in a Pierre Cardin coat in the September issue of Harper’s Bazaar.

 

The Puddle Jumper by Munkasci, Harper's Bazaar, 1934

The Puddle Jumper by Munkasci, Harper’s Bazaar, 1934

 

 

 

Homage to Munkasci by Avedon, Harper's Bazaar September, 1957

Homage to Munkasci by Avedon, Harper’s Bazaar September, 1957

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White Hot

Steven Meisel and Patrick Demarchelier

Steven Meisel looked to the 1967 film Belle du Jour for Vanity Fair’s December 2008 cover featuring Kate Winselt, describing the actress as “Deneuvely” in her risque ensemble. The 2012 Dior Timepiece campaign shot by Patrick Demarchelier stars Dior spokesmodel Charlize Theron seductively posed in a similar state of dishabille apart from the white coat and watch by Christian Dior.

Kate Winslet by Steven Meisel, Vanity Fair December, 2008

Kate Winslet by Steven Meisel, Vanity Fair December, 2008

 

Charlize Theron by Patrick Demarchelier, Dior 2012

Charlize Theron by Patrick Demarchelier, Dior 2012

 

 

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La Vie en Rose

Irving Penn and Terry Richardson

In accordance with his passion for photographing still lifes and floral vanitas, Irving Penn photographed Shalom Harlow in a floral creation by milliner Philip Treacy and dress by Richard Tyler for Vogue in April 1, 1995. Terry Richardson’s 2012 September Harper’s Bazaar cover features Gwen Stefani topped similarly in an oversized floral hat by Alexis Mabille paired with a petal pink dress from Raf Simon’s last collection for Jil Sander.

Irving Penn, Vogue April 1, 1995

Irving Penn, Vogue April 1, 1995

 

Gwen Stefani by Terry Richardson, Harper's Bazaar September, 2012

Gwen Stefani by Terry Richardson, Harper’s Bazaar September, 2012

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