Paul Poiret’s 1913 costumes for Le Minaret were followed soon after with similar versions available for his avant-garde patrons looking to shock in Orientalist ensembles. Poiret’s translation of harem-style dressing for the Parisian set resulted in a stiffened, oversized tunic paired atop his columnar hobble skirts. The “lampshade” silhouette became a signature design for Poiret both on and off-stage. For Valentino’s 2011 Spring Couture show, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri explored concepts of lightness and buoyancy; a look from the collection mimicking Poiret’s dual-hemmed silhouette.

 

Robe du soir by Paul Poiret in La Gazette du Bon Ton, no 1, 1914. Illustration by Georges Lepape

 

Valentino Spring 2011 Couture